This Holiday Season you can give your friends and family a gift they will certainly use: A Gift Certificate from VehicleSpa®! Our gift certificates are easily customizable, whether you’d like to give that special someone a specific service (such as a Level II or MiniDetail), or give them a dollar amount which they can use to create their own package. You can come in for purchase or order them over the phone. VehicleSpa® can also handle delivery, choose to have them shipped to you for hand delivery or shipped directly to the recipient. For more information please don’t hesitate to call 407.999.9094.

Happy Holidays from The VehicleSpa® Clean Team!

Taking care of your car’s appearance doesn’t qualify as vanity, it’s smart vehicle ownership. You can hire a professional auto detailer to care for your car for $100 to $500 — or you can swipe their secrets, do it yourself and save some dough.

There are a few professional organizations for detailers, like the National Association for Professional Detailing & Reconditioning (NAPDR) and the Professional Detailers Association, where you can find references for local detailers, but membership in either or any organization does not guarantee competence.

If you’re going to hire a detailer, ask a lot of questions, ask for references and to see sample work, and agree to a price in writing before the detailing work begins.

“There are no secrets in this business anymore,” said NAPDR Membership Chairman Randy Lowe, who also owns Randy’s Custom Detail in Salem, Oregon. With the free flow of information on the Internet, do-it-yourselfers have access to all of the tools and tricks of the trade available to the pros.

If you choose to detail your own ride, be prepared to spend a little bit of money gathering the proper tools and materials.

You may already have most of the right stuff handy in your garage; if you must gather everything from scratch, you might spend from $30 to $100 or more, depending on how extensive you want your detail job to be.

The most important material that you’ll need is already in your tool kit. For Lowe, the secret ingredient is hard work and elbow grease.

“Good detailing is 90% application and 10% product,” he said. “The best detailer can get decent results with decent products, but the worst detailer can’t get great results even with great products.” AOL Autos: 10 cars to keep you young

There are few automotive maintenance chores that are more satisfying, accessible to all skill levels and truly beneficial for your car than a good detail job.

We’ve collected the top secrets that will help you to get professional results, make your detailing more fun, more successful and easier.

Secret #1: Use two buckets to wash

Detailers know that the two bucket method is the best way to get your exterior clean. Use one bucket to hold your clean suds, and another bucket to hold clean water. Before you dip your cleaning mitt into the clean suds, rinse it off in the clean water bucket and wring it dry.

Then, you’re always putting a clean mitt into the clean suds that will go on your car. If you only use one bucket, you’re just moving dirt off of your car, into your suds and back onto your car.

Some pros have started using the Grit Guard insert, a $9.99 tray that helps sediment settle to the bottom of your wash bucket, instead of getting stirred up in the water and recollected on your wash mitt.

Secret #2: Join the microfiber revolution

We’re living the microfiber revolution. Pro detailers use color-coded, task-specific microfiber cloths and towels for greater efficiency, lower friction and scratching and easier washing, rinsing and drying. Mike Pennington, director of training and consumer relations for Meguiars, emphasizes that it’s important to wash your microfiber as a separate load, not mixed in with the regular laundry and rags.

Microfiber will trap the lint from cotton towels, defeating the purpose of the wash. Use very little detergent and skip the fabric softener, which will coat the fibers and inhibit microfiber’s qualities. Double up on the rinse cycle, and your microfiber will perform at its best. Remove any labels and stitching before you use your towels to avoid scratching.

And remember, you get what you pay for — those cheapo packs of microfiber from the warehouse store are not nearly as good as the ones you can find at online specialty stores.

Secret #3: Detail your trim first

This tip comes from Jim Dvorak, a product specialist at Mothers Polish. He suggests using a trim protectant/restorer like Mothers’ Back to Black before waxing your paint. Wash and dry your vehicle, then apply the trim protectant.

The product will repel polish and wax that might otherwise stain your trim. Some pro detailers use masking tape to protect the trim during waxing — this application can help save time and cleanup.

Secret #4: Use a buffer to apply product, a towel to remove

Consumers sometimes get confused by the name of the tool, and use a power buffer to remove wax or polish from the painted surfaces of their cars. A buffer can leave erratic swirl marks in your clear coat and paint if used to remove product, that’s not what it’s for.

Use the buffer to apply wax, and then use a soft, dry cloth to remove it. You’ll avoid burning the paint or damaging the clear coat, and you’ll wind up with a thin, even coat of wax.

Secret #5: Get a dual action polisher

For just a little bit more than you’d spend on a good direct drive polisher and an orbital polisher, you can get the perfect blend of both tools with a dual action polisher like the Flex XC 3401 VRG, which retails for around $280.

Based in Stuttgart, Germany, Flex has been making tools since 1922, and has been building dedicated auto finish polishers since 1988. The XC 3401 VRG is detailer Randy Lowe’s favorite tool for exterior finishes. He says that it will handle 90% of the polishing chores you will encounter.

Meguiars’ Dual Action Polisher ($149) is a little more consumer friendly, and a little less expensive than the Flex. It doesn’t have the forced rotation, which keeps the tool moving even under a heavy load. Forced rotation is a great feature for an expert who knows how to use it; in inexperienced hands, it can do more harm than good.

Secret #6: Use a clay bar system

This secret may be out of the bag already, but it’s such a good one that it bears repeating. There’s no better way to remove surface contaminants from paint than with a good clay bar system. Pros have been using clay for years, and consumer versions have been on the market for at least a decade.

A good clay bar system includes a spray lubricant, usually a detailing spray, an 80 – 100 gram clay bar, and a towel. According to Mike Pennington from Meguiars, after washing and drying your car, you rub the clay bar on the paint to remove “bonded environmental contaminants” without removing paint thickness.

The smoother paint surface takes polishing and wax better, and extends the life of subsequent treatments. Meguiars’ Smooth Surface Clay Kit retails for $19.99; Mothers’ California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System is $19.95.

Secret #7: Use a plastic grocery bag to check the paint surface

Hers’s another tip from Jim Dvorak at Mothers. Once you have cleaned your paint’s surface of contaminants with a clay bar system or other cleaner, it’s important to make sure that you’ve really removed all the dirt before you seal the surface with wax.

Put your hand in an ordinary thin plastic grocery bag, and run it over the surface of the paint. The plastic bag will amplify any bumps and imperfections, so that you can go back and detail again. Keep rechecking until the surface is totally smooth, then polish (if necessary) and apply protective wax.

Secret #8: Dry your glass in two directions

Here’s a great tip from Meguiars’ Pennington: Dry your glass in two directions. Get into the habit of doing your final wipe of interior glass in a horizontal direction, and the final wipe on the exterior in a vertical direction.

Then, when you find the inevitable streak, you’ll instantly know whether it’s on the inside (horizontal) or the outside (vertical) of the glass. You’ll get perfectly clear glass without jumping in and out of the vehicle chasing that streak.

Secret #9: Brush it first

Pennington says that when it comes to cleaning interiors, mechanical agitation is always better than chemical intervention. That means that your first line of attack is a good brush.

For instance, before vacuuming your carpeting, de-mat the fibers by using a stiff nylon brush. Then, when you vacuum, the dirt will be free in the carpet, and will be much easier to extract. The same goes for door panels, though you’ll want to use a gentler brush. If more aggressive cleaning is necessary, start gently, use a gentle solution of fabric cleaner, and dry with a soft cotton cloth.

Secret #10: Make static electricity your friend

To remove stubborn pet hair from your car’s carpets, put on a pair of latex gloves (readily available in boxes of 100 from any home improvement store) and then rub your hand over the carpet. The static electricity caused by the latex glove will help bring the pet hair up to the surface of the carpet for easy removal by hand or vacuum.

Secret #11: Leave the headliner alone

According to Pennington, there’s one part of the car that detailers avoid if at all possible: the headliner. Even a little bit of agitation can cause the glue in a headliner to fail, causing way more problems than it is worth. Keep your ministrations to a minimum when it comes to cleaning, brushing and tending to the headliner fabric.

If you positively must clean your headliner, use very little moisture, and never allow it to soak through the outer fabric.

Auto detailing can be a great way to bond with your car, and to make your automotive investment go farther, last longer and look better. Hopefully these top secrets will help you and your ride along the way.

SOURCE: AOL Autos

What does clay bar do?

A clay bar, when used with a clay lubricant will safely glide across the surface of your paint removing anything that protrudes from the surface. A clay bar can remove overspray, break-dust, rail-dust, and industrial pollution. A clay bar cannot remove scratches, swirls or etchings. Once all the containments are removed and the surface is silky smooth, the paint is now ready for polishing and waxing. Pinnacle’s ultra poly clay is a single finest clay composition available today. Ultra poly clay is a patented clay formula made exclusively for pinnacle natural brilliance. Ultra poly clay has an excellent elasticity and a soft, non-abrascent texture. It’s safe on any type of paint finish, glass, fiber-glass, and metal.

The first thing you need to do is to mold the clay. Mold the clay by squeezing it into your hand. Once it becomes pliable, roll into a ball and flatten it into a disk shape. Start by saturating both the clay bar and area to be clayed, with pinnacle clay lubricant. Glide the clay over the wet area of the paint using little, to no pressure. As the clay goes over the paint you’ll feel and hear the clay picking up the contaminants. Keep going over the area until the clay glides easily and you no longer feel or hear contaminant from the paint. Remove clay lubricant with a cobra micro-fiber towel.

The things you don’t wanna do with a clay bar is push too hard into the paint because it will scratch if you apply too much pressure. Also, always make sure that you have enough lubricant, if you don’t they’ll stick and you’ll get clay residue that could marrow the paint. When working on the horizontal surfaces be careful not to drop your clay bar. You don’t want to use a clay bar that has been dropped because it can pick up containments that can potentially scratch your paint’s finish. When the clay becomes dirty pull it upon itself and knead it until a clean surface appears. Also, check the clay periodically to make sure that you didn’t pick up any large containments that might scratch the paint. Discard the clay bar when you can no longer knead it into a clean surface.

A great tool for cleaning is the Polishin’ Pal with the Clay Disc adaptor. The clay disc adaptor has a smooth side, and a velcro side. Attach the velcro side to the Polishin’ Pal and the molded clay bar to the smooth side.
Now you have a handle for your clay. This will keep your hand dry and prevent the clay from accidently slipping out of your hand during use. Use the same cleaning technique when using the Polishin’ Pal.
Spray some lubricant on the clay and on the surface. Again, use no pressure in clay until you can not hear or feel any more contaminants getting picked up. Wipe the residue off with a cobra microfiber towel and move on to the next section.

Clay barring is an excellent way to safely remove impurities, haze and oxidation from your vehicles paint surface. If you do not have time or are not interested in trying this yourself, please bring your vehicle to VehicleSpa and our detail professionals would be happy to help you.

A lot of people are calling and emailing us to find out what is actually involved with the signature VIP Wax service here at VehicleSpa®. There is obviously an interest so we decided to detail the steps that we take. A VIP Wax starts with a VIP Wash: We begin by carefully washing your vehicle’s exterior with our VehicleSpa® wash soap. This will be a very thorough wash. We use the proper scrub brushes to get those hard to reach places in the tight spots of your wheels. We will also use the proper scrub pads to clean your wheel wells. We use clean, soft wash mitts to wash your car’s exterior while taking extra care not to damage your vehicle’s paint.

After your vehicle has been cleaned and rinsed we use very clean and very fresh damp terry towels to remove any excess water. We clean and dry all door jambs and finish the drying process with a high quality synthetic chamois. Once your vehicle is completely dry and free of all dirt we will apply a coat of our signature polymer sealant. This is a high quality synthetic wax that really lasts and protects your paint from the sun’s harsh rays.

A typical Carnuba wax application will only protect a Florida car for about a week before melting away. Even in the most extreme conditions the synthetic polymer we use protects the shine and paint on your car for up to 3 months. Please take a minute and watch the video:

If you would like to see the video in HI-RES Click Here!

If you would like to see the video in HI-RES Click Here!

In Florida and most states in the country swirl marks are very common and very curable problem, At VehicleSpa® we are very familiar with the proper way to treat and remove the unsightly condition that plagues all vehicle owners. If you would like VehicleSpa® to help you with your swirl mark situation set an appointment at vehiclespa.com/concierge and we would be happy to help.

Conquer the Dreaded Swirl Mark

By Prentice St. Clair

One of the professional detailer’s worst enemies is the swirl mark. We are either spending a lot of time and energy trying to avoid leaving them or removing those created by someone else. For those unfamiliar with swirl marks or anyone just trying to get a better understanding of the subject, here is an overview that will help you define swirl marks, find out where they come from and learn how to avoid them and remove them.

What is a swirl mark?

It is important to understand that a swirl mark is simply another type of scratch. In fact, swirl marks can be categorized as a type of micro-scratch. We can get into a lot of semantics here, but from a professional standpoint, the technical definition of a swirl mark is the micro-scratches caused by simple rotary polishing. Swirls appear as lines of concentric circle arcs across the paint surface and are most visible in direct sunlight. These lines of circle arcs will change position as the car passes by, creating a swirling effect like a thin ribbon blowing in the wind–hence the name swirl mark.

Sunlight is a key factor in seeing swirl marks. A vehicle with heavy swirl marks can look spectacularly shiny in the shade, but as soon as that vehicle is pulled into the sun, the swirls appear.

When speaking with customers about swirl marks, it is important to distinguish between swirl marks and other forms of micro-scratching such as washing scratches, polishing scratches and technical scratches. Micro-scratches are typically most visible in bright sunlight, are too small to catch a fingernail, and, if allowed to accumulate several months or years, will cause the paint surface to appear dull.

Polishing scratches. Yes, it is possible to put micro-scratches into a car’s paint through inappropriate use of a random-orbital or dual-action polisher. This can happen by using pads or chemicals that are more aggressive than necessary or by using dirty pads.

Technical scratches. These are scratches that are put into the paint inadvertently by the detail technician. There are innumerable ways for this to happen but some common causes are using dirty or rough towels to remove polishing and waxing residue, and using clay that is contaminated with some kind of grit.

Washing scratches. Sometimes customers mistakenly identify washing scratches as swirl marks. Washing scratches look more like straight lines than the typical circular shape of swirls. In fact, washing scratches often look similar to a spider’s web and thus can be described as cob-webbing or spider-webbing. An unavoidable fact of life for the paint surface of a vehicle is that every time it is touched, it is scratched. Even the softest, most gentle carwashing techniques will scratch the paint, even if only slightly. Over time, these scratches accumulate. That’s why it is so difficult to keep black cars scratch-free. It only takes about a month’s worth of weekly washing for a pristine black car to start showing washing scratches.

Other micro-scratches. There are many ways that micro-scratches can be put into the paint. Micro-scratching can result from contacting a dusty or dirty paint surface with, for example, the palm of the hand, or removing a car cover. Another common cause of micro-scratches is placing objects like handbags, coffee mugs and keys on the paint surface.

As mentioned earlier, swirl marks come from simple rotary (or high-speed) polishing. When the pad of a standard high-speed polisher is flat on the paint surface, the swirl mark is created at the leading edge of the pad. It is important for the professional detailer to realize that it is impossible to completely avoid creating swirl marks when using a high-speed polisher. This is simply one of the drawbacks that comes with the many benefits to using high-speed polishers. Instead, strive to use the correct pad, chemical and technique for the situation at hand, which can greatly reduce the amount of swirl marks left behind.

How to avoid creating swirl marks

It is virtually impossible to completely eliminate the occurrence of swirl marks when using a high-speed polisher. However, there are a number of things that can be done to help reduce the chances of creating swirls.

Is high-speed polishing necessary? I have spoken with a surprisingly large number of technicians over the years who pick up the high-speed buffer for every car that comes in the shop. If the vehicle does not need any paint correction, there is no need to use the high-speed machine. A random-orbital will work great to apply protective chemicals such as wax or sealant. Moreover, many vehicles with minor paint problems will benefit tremendously from polishing using the random-orbital polisher and a true-cut polish, followed, of course, with an application of a protective product. And since the random-orbit machine cannot create swirls, you virtually eliminate the problem.

Furthermore, most surface contamination problems can be handled by using detailer’s clay followed by an application of a protective product. It used to be that surface problems such as paint overspray had to be removed using a high-speed polisher with a wool pad and compound. With the relatively recent advent of detailer’s clay, this highly aggressive combination is no longer necessary in most cases.

Swirl marks can be categorized as a type of micro-scratch.

Use the least-aggressive method. If the customer is demanding perfection or the paint has more serious problems that cannot be completely removed using dual-action technology, then the high-speed polisher is the best answer. However, just because you have decided to use the high-speed polisher does not mean that you have to start with a wool pad or heavy compound. Instead, test each situation, starting with a very mild combination, such as a foam finishing pad and light polish. If this removes the damage at hand in a relatively short amount of time, this is the pad/chemical combination of choice. If not, move up slightly in aggressiveness (e.g., a foam cutting pad and a mild polish), and so on.

Use “true cut” chemicals. A common problem with high-speed polishing is that while the vehicle looks great immediately after the detail, after a few weeks the customer will call to complain that the damage has reappeared. This situation is often the result of using polishing products with hiding capabilities. These products will partially remove the damage but also fill in the damage at the same time, making it appear to the technician that the damage has been removed. After a few washes and a few weeks in the hot sun, the filling chemicals evaporate, exposing the remainder of the damage that was not completely removed to begin with.

These types of “combo” products can also hide swirl marks as they are put into the paint. To avoid this problem, it is recommended that you use polishing products that do not have any filling, hiding or glazing capability. These are called true-cut products–what you see is what you get. That is, when the damage appears to be removed, it actually is removed instead of just being filled in.

Pad management. The depth of swirl marks can be enhanced by using old, worn-out or dirty pads. It is critical to keep your pads clean before, between and during high-speed polishing. Use a stiff-bristled nylon brush for foam pads and a cleaning spur for wool pads, and place these tools against the pad while it is spinning on the machine. Clean the pad of excess chemical during the high-speed polishing session, perhaps before moving to each new section of the vehicle. Store pads in a plastic bag after use to prevent dust and debris from lodging in the pad. Replace foam pads that have any divots, slices or holes since imperfections in the pad surface can create deep swirls.

Don’t be cheap about replacing old pads. Your pads should be in excellent condition, even if it means using a new pad for each vehicle. If you are trying to save a few bucks by over-extending the useful life of the pad, you are increasing the chances of leaving swirls behind by using old, worn-out and damaged pads. For example, a foam finishing pad can become as aggressive as a foam cutting pad over time as the finishing foam wears down and the pad surface becomes worn. Keep in mind that high-speed polishing yields results that should command a higher-than-normal exterior detailing price, which should more than cover the extra expense of using pristine pads.

Technique. Perhaps the most important element in avoiding swirl marks is using correct polishing technique. With the knowledge of how the swirls are created and by controlling the machine, one can reduce the amount of swirls that are created. A discussion of proper buffer technique is an entire article-length topic in and of itself. Hands-on training from a recognized industry leader is recommended here, even if you have been high-speed polishing for a while.

In short, keep the pad parallel to the surface whenever possible. Work only a shoulder-width area at a time. Cut the edges of the panel before buffing the main body of the panel. Let the trigger hand do most of the work and relax the other hand. Use a “reverse-E” motion instead of a snake motion across the panel.

Removing swirl marks

Should you come across a car that already has swirl marks, there are some specific approaches to reducing their appearance. As mentioned earlier, swirl marks are simply a type of micro-scratch and can be removed like any other type of micro-scratch. Test an area of the vehicle where the swirls are most prevalent. Start by using a random-orbit machine, medium-cut pad and a mild true-cut polish. Polish the area slowly and thoroughly, then remove the residue and check for any remaining swirls. The check should be done in direct sunlight. If this method is working in a reasonable amount of time, use it on the remainder of the vehicle. Follow the polishing step with application of a protective product.

If the random-orbit machine will not completely remove the swirl marks, it may be necessary to use the high-speed machine. Again, use the least-aggressive combination of pad and chemical that removes the damage in a reasonable amount of time. And you, unlike the previous technician who left swirl marks on the vehicle, will use correct technique, fresh pads and a true-cut product to help minimize the amount of swirls you leave behind. And, of course, follow your polishing with the application of a protective product by hand or preferably use a random-orbit machine with soft pads.

Machine-wary customers

“I don’t want you to use any machines on my car!” Have you ever heard this from a customer? Often, this type of attitude comes from a previous bad experience. This type of customer probably had a vehicle detailed by an individual who did not know how to correctly use a high-speed polisher, leaving behind swirls and burned edges. Or the customer has heard painful stories, myths or rumors of the “potential damage” that can be created by polishing machines.

As detailing professionals, most of us realize that polishing and even waxing a car by hand is inefficient and wasteful. We will–at least–be using a random-orbit “machine” on the vehicle, so it is important to be able to allay the fears of the machine-wary customer. Start by empathizing with the customer, perhaps by saying something like, “I understand your concern over the use of polishing machines. Unfortunately, there are some detailing technicians who don’t take the time to learn the correct use of polishing machines. When used correctly, these machines can be incredibly effective at perfecting the paint surface, simultaneously saving a tremendous amount of time compared to working by hand. The less time I have to spend–without, of course, sacrificing results–the lower the cost to you.”

If you plan to use a random-orbit machine, you can continue by saying something like, “It is virtually impossible for this type of machine to create swirl marks or otherwise damage the paint. It simply imitates hand motion but at a much faster pace. The random-orbit machine provides more-even results and allows you to do the work without excess fatigue, yielding a much better result for you and the customer.”

If you have determined that the best course of action on the vehicle is to use a high-speed polisher, explain this to the customer. “The best and most thorough way to remove this damage in the paint on your vehicle is to use the high-speed polisher. If you want perfect results, this is the way to go. Rest assured that I know how to do this, and I offer an excellence guarantee so that if there is something you don’t like about the job, I’ll fix it without charge.”

Of course, you need to back these kinds of statements up with proper education and training and a certain amount of hands-on experience in the correct use of the high-speed polisher.

In order to understand swirl marks, the professional detailer must have an understanding of what they look like, how they are created, how to avoid them and how to remove them. Your ability to communicate this information to the customer is also important in making decisions on how to approach the paint surface in order to yield a great-looking vehicle and a delighted customer.